The mass of the total scratch coat along with setting bed mortar and the faux stone units provides water management through both absorption and evaporation.
Using a self-furred or lath furring fastener, center the lath near the middle of the mortar thickness. Reinforcement at the center of the mortar offers optimal crack resistance. Failure to fur the lath will make it difficult to obtain the necessary scratch coat thickness, and will also prevent reinforcement from functioning to its full extent. To meet building code requirements, adhered stone veneer must achieve a minimum bond strength of 50 psi.
To meet these standards, follow these key principles:. The goal is to achieve a uniform layer of mortar on the wall that supplements the mortar of the scratch coat and achieves a minimum 50 psi shear bond strength. You should have no voids within the mortar layers that could capture water, as captured water can freeze and result in debonding. Every faux stone veneer manufacturer has specific care and maintenance requirements to help you and your client preserve the beauty and function of your manufactured stone veneer for decades to come.
For more detailed instructions, download one of our stone veneer installation guides. Did you know you can often achieve the look and feel of natural st Cultured Stone. Back to Blog Listing. August 31, Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Prepare the surface. Stone veneer can be applied to any masonry surface such as concrete, existing brick, or foundation cinder block.
If you're working with wood or any other non-masonry surface, you can create an appropriate surface by surrounding the non-masonry surface with a water barrier. Apply a moisture vapor barrier if you're doing an exterior application. Moisture vapor barriers usually come with a self-sealing membrane. Peel back the outer layer to expose the sticky backside of the membrane and simply stick it onto your surface.
The membrane's unpeeled surface is extremely sticky; if it accidentally sticks somewhere it shouldn't, you're going to have a hell of a time trying to get it off. If you're working inside, you shouldn't need to set down a water vapor barrier, unless you're adding stone veneer to a wood surface, like plywood.
Create a barrier of gauge metal lath after you've placed your water vapor barrier. Create a scratch coat with mortar. You can make mortar by mixing 2 or 3 parts washed sand with 1 part cement and adding water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. The lath should not stick out from the scratch coat.
Follow manufacturer's directions, but most of all, be consistent with whatever recipe you choose. If you decide to use sand to cement, stick with each time you use mortar elsewhere.
Before the scratch coat dries, scrape horizontal grooves into the scratch coat. Use a metal scraper or a scrap piece of the lath material. Allow the scratch coat to set up, or cure, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Now, you are ready to apply your stone veneer. Part 2. Mix the mortar, following the same ratio you used for the scratch coat. Mix for a minimum of 5 minutes, until you've achieved the consistency of mashed potatoes.
Too wet and your mortar will lose strength. Too dry and your mortar will seize up too quickly. Determine the layout of the stones.
It's helpful to do a dry run and think about the layout of the stones as they will appear on the wall. Spending a little extra time configuring their placement now will save you the headache of excessive trimming later. If it's helpful, do the dry run on the ground instead of trying to hold the stones up against the wall. These systems are installed by both DIYers and professionals.
The reason we group traditional stone veneer and natural stone under the same umbrella is that while there are differences between workability and material, they have a very similar installation method which requires a weather-resistive barrier WRB , lath, mortar and sometimes structural elements such as grade beams, structural wall systems or lintels to carry the weight.
Due to the nature of traditional stone veneer and natural stone siding, it often takes substantially more time to install than mortarless easy-to-install stone veneer products. With the need for lath, mortar, structural elements, and skilled labor, end-users often pay a heftier on the wall price. Since not all mortarless stone veneer is treated the same, some require screwing into the surface and hitting structural studs with the use of connection flanges or brackets, where only Evolve can be directly face nailed.
As mentioned above, there are two options with mortarless stone veneer products: panelized systems and individual stone systems. Now that you understand how the stone veneer installation process can depend on the veneer type purchased, we have provided an overview of steps and considerations to guide you through your project.
One of the biggest differences between traditional and mortarless manufactured stone veneer is your waste. All of these factors will help inform the materials you need to gather for your specific project such as your WRB, rainscreen, wire lath, mortar, insulation and any required tools or fasteners. When installing over wood, no cleaning is typically required. For traditional stone installation, the surface is often prepped with a dual WRB weather-resistance barrier , rainscreen, wire lath and a scratch coat.
Make sure to not cut any corners if installing a scratch coat. Wait for the full to hour window for the coat to firm up, otherwise, it can create quality control issues. If the wall is painted, the pores are clogged and the adhesive will not be able to bond to wall as it is designed to, and the installation may result in a failure. What we try to show in our showroom — beside the differences in stone types and colors — are the differences between installation techniques.
Stoneyard Thin Veneer is a natural product, not man-made from concrete. The stone is at least one million years old, has been through countless freezes and thaws so there will be no problem with expansion and contraction, and will not fade. Unlike man-made faux stone, it is the same color throughout.
The stone is cut and crafted from either natural New England Fieldstone or stone cut from a quarry in the New England area of the U. When installing thin veneer outdoors, it is essential to use proper installation methods such as cement board and a water barrier to prevent water from getting behind the stone. The temperature needs to remain at 40 degrees or higher for 72 hours to cure. We can recommend Laticrete Hi Bond Rapid which will speed up the cure time, but 72 hours is still advised.
No masonry shelf is needed. A diamond blade on a right angle grinder or wet saw. We recommend installation by a Certified Thin Veneer Installer.
If you are covering a corner with stone then…yes. Our natural stone thin veneer corners give your project the appearance of full thickness stone. Compare color and shapes, flats and corners, sizes and specifications, and shipping options. Contains the complete Stoneyard Thin Stone Veneer natural stone product line.
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